Dining at the Tomb: Chef Manish Mehrotra’s Historic New Venture
Dining with History: Chef Manish Mehrotra’s Nisaba
Chef Manish Mehrotra has returned to the Delhi dining scene, and he has chosen a location as iconic as his culinary reputation.
His new restaurant, Nisaba, is situated near the Humayun’s Tomb complex and Sunder Nursery. While Chef Mehrotra is often credited with inventing "Modern Indian" cuisine at Indian Accent, Nisaba appears to mark a shift away from modernist theatrics toward what he calls "soulful Indian food."
The Concept
Named after the Sumerian goddess of grain, the restaurant focuses on ingredients and regional depth rather than molecular gastronomy. The interiors, designed by Via Design, are understated to let the food and the historical setting take center stage.
On the Menu
The menu combines nostalgia with refined techniques. According to recent reports, highlights include:
- Samosa served with Moradabadi dal and "everything chutney."
- Mutton Seekh Kabab paired with blue cheese butter.
- Tiger Prawns with Konkan javla butter and Goan poee bread.
- Clay Pot Motihari Mutton served with hing sattu kachori.
Why This Matters
This opening suggests a maturity in Indian fine dining. We are moving past the era where "modern" meant foam and smoke. Nisaba seems to argue that the true modernization of Indian cuisine lies in honoring its roots while perfecting the technique.
It is a fascinating blend of history and gastronomy, right in the heart of Delhi.
